How to Choose the Right Power Supply for Your Xbox One | Match The Console

The original Xbox One needs its external Microsoft power supply unit; the Xbox One S and Xbox One X have internal power supplies and take no brick at all.

Plugging the wrong brick into an original Xbox One is the fastest way to a dead console and a voided warranty. Whether you’re replacing a lost power supply or rescuing a console from a thrift store shelf, the choice comes down to one thing: which Xbox One model is sitting under your TV. Get that right and the rest is straightforward.

Which Xbox One Model Do You Actually Have?

Three consoles carry the Xbox One name, and only one of them uses an external power supply. Check the label on the back or bottom of the console before you buy anything.

• Original Xbox One (2013): a bulky black box with a separate external power supply unit, often called the brick. It connects to the console with a dedicated cable.
• Xbox One S: the smaller white console with an internal power supply. It plugs straight into the wall with a standard power cord.
• Xbox One X: the compact black console, also with an internal power supply and no external brick.

Microsoft’s own power supply support page confirms this split directly: the original Xbox One uses the standard external unit, while the Xbox One S and Xbox One X draw power internally. If your console has no brick-shaped adapter in the cable run, it doesn’t need one.

Original Xbox One Power Supply: What To Look For

Microsoft no longer manufactures the original Xbox One or its power supply, and out-of-warranty support for that hardware has ended. Replacements still circulate, so the job is separating genuine units from lookalikes.

Microsoft’s guidance is blunt about this: the company does not license non-Microsoft accessories that plug into the Xbox One power socket, and using anything other than the standard unit may damage the console and void the warranty. That rules out universal bricks, laptop adapters, and modified cables.

A few rules keep you out of trouble:

• Match the replacement to the exact console model, not just the Xbox One name.
• Confirm the connector and part fit before paying — visual similarity is not compatibility.
• Buy from a seller with a return policy, since genuine stock is limited.

If you’d rather skip the guesswork, this roundup of tested Xbox One power supply options narrows down units that fit the original 2013 console without the compatibility gamble.

Before You Replace Anything: The 10-Second Reset

A console that won’t power on isn’t automatically a dead power supply. Microsoft’s official reset procedure costs nothing and rules out a tripped unit before you spend a dollar.

1. Unplug the power cable from the console, the wall outlet, and the power supply unit.
2. Wait 10 seconds.
3. Plug the cable back into the wall outlet and the power supply unit — but leave the console disconnected.
4. Check the LED on the power supply and follow Microsoft’s instructions for the light pattern you see.
5. Reconnect the unit to the console only as the support procedure directs.

That LED tells you more than a hunch does. An unlit or blinking light points to a specific condition, and the official guide maps each state to a next step. Skipping straight to a purchase wastes money when the real fix is a reseated cable.

If the reset confirms the unit is gone, the replacement rules above apply. For anything unclear about the hardware itself, Microsoft publishes official Xbox console and accessory manuals covering power and setup.

Placement, Heat, and Safety

The power supply needs breathing room, and that applies whether it sits outside the console or inside it. Microsoft’s power supply guidance covers placement, temperature, noise, and electrical safety, and the practical version is simple.

Keep the brick on a hard, open surface rather than carpet or a shelf packed with other electronics. Don’t stack anything on top of it, and don’t enclose it in a cabinet with the console. A unit that runs hot shortens its own life, and the original Xbox One brick gets warm in normal use.

Never open or repair a power supply yourself unless you’re qualified to work with mains voltage. Replacement is the safer answer every time. And if a unit smells like burning plastic or shows scorching at the connector, stop using it immediately — that’s not a reset-and-retry situation.