Specs are compiled from manufacturer listings and verified buyer reviews and can change over time — please confirm the key details on the product page before buying.
Your Warrior 350 stopped cranking, and now you are staring at a parts page full of near-identical numbers wondering which one actually bolts onto your machine. That is the real problem with Yamaha Warrior 350 parts: the OEM part number (the factory code that identifies the exact original part) is the whole ballgame, and a single digit off means a return label. This list covers the nine replacement parts owners reach for most often — starters, brake calipers, chains, intake boots, carburetors, stators and oil kits — and for each one you get the exact part numbers it replaces plus the honest catch nobody puts in the listing title.
This guide is built by comparing the manufacturers’ published specifications and the patterns across verified customer reviews, so you get each pick’s real strengths and trade-offs instead of marketing spin.
The Warrior 350 ran from 1987 to 2004, and parts get mislabeled across that whole span, so cross-checking the OEM number before you click buy saves you a week of shipping. That single habit is what makes shopping for yamaha warrior 350 parts painless instead of a parts-counter argument.
Top Picks
How To Choose The Best Yamaha Warrior 350 Parts
The Warrior 350 is not one machine — it is a model that changed quietly across roughly two decades, so the part that fits a 1987 quad may not fit a 2004. Buy the OEM number first and the brand second.
Match the OEM number, not the product title
Every listing here publishes the factory part numbers it replaces. Write your machine’s number down before you shop and read the listing’s cross-reference line word for word. A caliper listed under 3GD-2580T-01-00 and 3GD-2580U-01-00 is a different animal from one that only claims “Warrior 350” in the headline. If the digits do not match, the part does not fit.
Know which systems fail first on a Warrior 350
The electrical side is the usual suspect — starters, stators and relays wear out with age and mud. Brakes and chains go next because they are consumables. Carburetor and intake work tends to follow a rebuild or a long sit. Buy for the job you are actually doing today, not the whole wish list.
Read the fitment range, not just the model name
A part can say “Warrior 350” and still only cover part of the production run. The Caltric stator here covers 1996-2001 specifically, while the OEG starter spans 1987-2013 across several Yamaha 350 models. Wider coverage is not automatically better — it usually means the part was built to a common pattern, so check your year twice.
Side-by-Side Comparison
| Model | Best For | Part Type | Replaces OEM # | Fitment Window | Amazon |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| OEG Parts Starter★ Best Overall | Dead electric start | Starter motor | 4SH-81800-00 | 1987-2013 Yamaha 350 | Amazon |
| M MATI Front Calipers & PadsPremium Pick | Both front brakes at once | Caliper pair + pads | 3GD-2580T-01-00 | Warrior 350 1989-2004 | Amazon |
| OLIFANT Front Brake CalipersTop Performer | Rebuilding the front end | Caliper pair + pads | 3GD-2580T-01-00 | Warrior / Big Bear / Kodiak | Amazon |
| Caltric Blue Drive Chain | Worn-out final drive | Roller chain | CH105-120/37 | Warrior 350 1987-2004 | Amazon |
| 1PZ CNC Intake Manifold Boot | Cracked rubber boot | Aluminum intake boot | 1UY-13586-01-00 | Warrior 350 1987-2004 | Amazon |
| Hity Motor Starter & Relay | Starter plus solenoid kit | Starter + relay | 31464-C17-24 | 1987-2004 Warrior / Moto-4 | Amazon |
| FYIYI YFM350 Carburetor | Full carb & intake swap | Carburetor + intake | YFM350-87-04 | Warrior / Moto-4 / Big Bear 350 | Amazon |
| Caltric Stator & Gasket | No-spark charging trouble | Stator + gasket | ST100+GT100 | Warrior 350 1996-2001 | Amazon |
| Edwards Oil Change Kit | Routine oil service | Oil + filter + o-rings | yam-4006 | 1988-2004 Warrior 350 | Amazon |
Detailed Reviews
1. OEG Parts Starter Yamaha YFM350 Raptor
Our pick — 4.5+★ from 450+ verified ratings; the strongest balance of quality and price.
The fix for a Warrior that clicks instead of cranking, and the highest-graded starter in this lineup.
A starter motor is a simple promise: turn the engine when you hit the button. This one delivers 12 volts through a counter-clockwise (CCW) rotation with a 9-tooth, 9-spline drive — plain English, the little gear that meshes into your flywheel has nine teeth and spins the direction your Warrior expects. Get that wrong and the motor spins uselessly against the ring gear. Get it right and the engine catches on the first press.
What makes this the pick of the litter is the cross-reference list. It replaces 4SH-81800-00 and dozens of other factory numbers, and the listing states it fits 1987-2013 Yamaha 350 Raptor, Big Bear, Warrior and Kodiak models. That range means it is built to a shared Yamaha 350 pattern rather than a single-year part. Fit is what owners talk about most, and it is also what they are happiest with — installation comes up nearly as often, and the theme is the same: it goes in without a fight. At 3.8 pounds it carries real metal, and it arrives as one tested unit with no mounting hardware in the box, so reuse your original bolts.
The honest trade-off is that this is a bare starter — no relay, no solenoid, no hardware. If your solenoid is also tired, the Hity Motor kit below bundles both. And confirm your machine’s factory number appears somewhere in that long replacement list before you order, because 1987-2013 is a wide net and Yamaha changed details along the way.
What earns it first place
- Replaces 4SH-81800-00 plus a long list of Yamaha 350 factory numbers
- 12V, CCW rotation, 9-tooth and 9-spline — matches the Warrior’s electric start
- 12V motor with a 9-tooth, 9-spline drive gear that meshes with the Warrior flywheel
- 3.8 pounds of metal, not a hollow shell
Where it asks more of you
- No mounting hardware included — reuse your originals
- Ships as the starter only, so a tired relay is a separate buy
- The wide 1987-2013 fitment means you must verify your exact year
Reach for this if: your Warrior’s electric start is dead and you want the most proven single-part fix on this list.
Pair it with a relay if: the solenoid is original too — otherwise you will be back under the seat sooner than you want.
2. M MATI Brake Calipers & Pads Yamaha YFZ350
Both front calipers, pads already seated, mounting brackets in the box — the closest thing to plug-and-brake in this lineup.
Brake work is where a Warrior project stalls. Buying one caliper at a time means two shipments, two bleeds and a mismatched pair on the front end. This M MATI set solves that by shipping left and right calipers as a matched assembly, with pads, banjos and the exact mounting bracket already fitted. The listing is blunt about the payoff: direct install, no adjustment needed.
Fitment is the reason it sits near the top. It covers the Warrior 350 YFM350 from 1989-2004, and it also lists Banshee 350, Big Bear, Kodiak, Grizzly, Raptor and Wolverine models across a wide YFM range. Inside each caliper is an alloy piston and an anti-ageing seal kit, which the maker claims adds braking force and service life. At 2.93 pounds versus the OEG starter above at 3.8 pounds — a useful reminder that you are buying two small alloy assemblies, not a lump of cast iron. Braking power gets called decent by owners, and the recurring theme across reviews is that the parts go on cleanly and function as they should.
Here is the catch: this is a universal-fit caliper set built to a shared Yamaha pattern, not a factory-number-locked part for your exact year. Bleeding the system properly after install is on you, and that step is where most brake jobs go wrong. If you want the highest-scoring pair on this list, look at the OLIFANT set next — it edges this one on score.
The practical wins
- Left and right calipers plus pads and banjos in one order
- Exact mounting bracket included — no fabrication
- Alloy piston and anti-ageing seal kit inside
- Warrior 350 coverage stated for 1989-2004
The honest limits
- You still bleed the lines yourself after fitting
- Built to a cross-model pattern, so verify your year and part number
Best matched pair: if both front calipers are tired, this ships them as a set with pads already in place.
Not the top score: the OLIFANT pair next door grades higher — this one wins on parts bundled in the box.
3. Front Brake Calipers Yamaha Warrior 350
The highest-graded caliper pair here, and the one that quietly out-scores the M MATI set on the same job.
If you are replacing the front brakes on a Warrior 350 and you want the best-reviewed option, this OLIFANT pair takes it. It ships one left and one right caliper with pads fitted, and it replaces the same 3GD-2580T-01-00 and 3GD-2580U-01-00 family numbers as the M MATI set above. Where it pulls ahead is in the front-end coverage: Banshee 350 YFZ350 1990-2006, Grizzly 350/400/450 through 2007-2014, and the Big Bear 250/350/450 range all appear on its fitment list.
What wins people over is how it performs once bolted on — braking action is the thing owners talk about most, with fit trailing close behind. That combination is exactly what you want from a consumable safety part: it goes where it should and it stops the quad. The pads come pre-mounted, so you are not hunting for a separate set. At 3.12 pounds it lands between the M MATI pair and the OEG starter in raw weight, and the package is a straightforward pair of assemblies.
The one wrinkle worth knowing: the included small parts draw mixed reactions from buyers. Some find the supplied hardware and fittings fine, others swap them for their originals. That is a minor annoyance on an otherwise strong part, and if you already have good banjo bolts and washers, plan to reuse them.
The verdict in one line: the best-graded caliper pair on this list, with the widest front-end model coverage of the two brake options.
Plan around: the bundled small parts divide opinion — keep your old fittings handy just in case.
Pick this over the M MATI: slightly better grading and broader model coverage for the same caliper job.
Think twice if: you need the exact mounting bracket — that is the M MATI’s edge, not this one’s.
4. Caltric Blue Drive Chain Yamaha Warrior 350
A blue-finished alloy steel chain that covers the Warrior’s entire 1987-2004 run in a single part number.
Chains are the quiet consumable on a Warrior — you do not notice one until it is stretched, noisy or about to let go. This Caltric replacement is a single-strand roller chain in alloy steel, built for exactly that job. It is the only part in this lineup with a colour choice, and the blue finish is the visible difference from a plain steel chain.
The practical strength is the fitment window. It lists the Warrior 350 YFM350X across 1987-2004, which is the full production span — no year-checking gymnastics, no “fits 1996-2001 only” trap that catches buyers on older quads. That full-span coverage is what makes it the value pick: one part number, every year. It carries a 90-day warranty from Caltric, which is a reasonable safety net for a wear item.
What you should know before ordering: the listing itself tells you to compare the posted picture to the unit you are replacing. That is honest advice, because chain pitch and length vary across the 350 family and the listing gives you the model code rather than a spec sheet. Match the picture and your old chain’s layout, then fit it. Expect to set tension and lube it like any chain — this is a maintenance item, not a set-and-forget part.
Why it earns a slot: full 1987-2004 Warrior 350 coverage in one part, alloy steel construction, and a 90-day warranty behind it.
The follow-up question: there is no published tooth or pitch spec in the listing, so verify against your old chain and the posted photo before you buy.
Suits: any Warrior 350 owner replacing a stretched or worn final-drive chain, regardless of year.
Check first: compare the product photo to your existing chain — the listing asks you to, and it is the right call.
5. IM3-MA1 Carburetor Intake Manifold Boot Yamaha Warrior 350
Replaces the factory rubber boot with machined aluminum so a cracked intake cannot ruin your air-fuel mix again.
The rubber intake boot between your carburetor and your head is a sneaky failure point. It cracks with heat and age, and a cracked boot pulls unmetered air — the classic rough idle, lean stumble and general misery. This 1PZ part replaces it with a piece of CNC 6061-T6 aluminum (a machined, hardened alloy) that is 3 millimeters thick and should not split the way rubber does. It replaces OEM numbers 1UY-13586-01-00 and 1UY-13586-02-00.
It ships as a boxed kit: the manifold, a custom gasket, 2 bolts and 4 washers. That completeness is a real plus on a part this small — losing a bolt on a Saturday is exactly the sort of thing that stalls a weekend rebuild. The stated fitment is Warrior 350 YFM350X 1987-2004 plus the YFM 350 Wolverine 1995. Build quality is what people praise most about this one, and the “better than the OEM rubber” comparison is the refrain.
Then the honest part: fit and sealing are genuinely mixed in the feedback. Some installations click into place perfectly, others report the manifold does not line up or will not seal, and intake leaks follow from there. That is not a bad part — it is a rigid part, and rigid parts are unforgiving of a slightly tweaked head or a mismatched intake. If a rubber boot has served you fine and you want the forgiving option, this is a decision, not a default upgrade.
The strong suit: machined 6061-T6 aluminum at 3 millimeters thick, sold with gasket, bolts and washers — a complete replacement in one box.
The trade-off to weigh: aluminum does not give like rubber, and a few installations end up chasing a seal. Dry-fit it and confirm alignment before you torque anything.
Worth it when: your rubber boot is cracked and you are tired of replacing it, and your intake surfaces are true.
Go rubber instead if: you want the most forgiving seal on a well-used head — the aluminum is less tolerant of misalignment.
6. Starter & Relay Solenoid Yamaha Warrior 350
Two parts in one box — the starter and the relay that feeds it — because they tend to fail together.
The electric start on an old Warrior is a chain of parts, and when it quits you rarely know which link broke. This Hity Motor set removes the guesswork by shipping the starter motor and the relay solenoid together — the count matters here: two items in the box versus the single starter in the OEG pick above. It spec’s at 12 volts and 2 KW, which is the power the motor draws to spin that flywheel.
The replacement list is genuinely long, covering 31464-C17-24 plus a wall of Yamaha numbers, with stated fitment across Warrior 350 YFM350 1987-2004, Moto-4 350, Kodiak 400, Terra PRO 350 and Big Bear 350 models. Fit is where owners are happiest — the parts land where they should. The 1.81 kg listed weight is the shipping weight of a metal starter assembly, so do not read it as the part alone.
Where this one needs a cooler head is long-term reliability, which is genuinely mixed in the feedback. Some units run faultlessly for a long stretch, others do not. That is the nature of aftermarket electrical parts — a starter is a wear item and a budget-friendly one will not always match the service life of a factory unit. If you want the single highest-graded starter on this list, the OEG is the safer emotional buy; if you want both parts and want to fix the whole circuit in one go, this is the efficient choice.
What it solves: both halves of the start circuit at once — 12V, 2 KW, starter and relay together — so you are not guessing which part failed.
Set expectations: reliability reports are mixed on this aftermarket kit. Treat it as a repair, not a permanent cure, and keep your original relay if it still tests good.
The efficient fix: buy this when the whole start circuit is suspect and you want starter and solenoid in one order.
Pass if: you only need the motor and want the most-proven single part — the OEG above is the safer pick.
7. YFM350 Carburetor Yamaha Warrior Big Bear 350
A one-box carb-and-intake swap that fixes starting and idle — once you get it dialed in.
When a Warrior sits for a season, the carburetor is usually the victim: gummed jets, a stuck float, a rough idle you cannot tune out. This FYIYI kit attacks that whole assembly at once. You get the carburetor, the intake manifold, a fuel filter and the mounting hardware, all in a single order. That completeness is the appeal — no hunting for a manifold gasket or a filter on a separate cart.
The quick win is starting and idle behavior. Buyers report the engine catches easily and settles into a steady idle, and idle quality is the strongest positive theme in the feedback. Stated fitment is Warrior 350, Moto-4 350 and Big Bear 350 applications across the 1987-2004 span, under manufacturer part YFM350-87-04. That is broad coverage, and broad coverage is exactly why the next paragraph matters.
Because “not plug-and-play” is the refrain you need to hear before ordering. Fit, quality, installation and adjustability all draw genuinely mixed reactions, and intake leakage comes up as a real recurring negative. That is what a carburetor is: a tunable device that will not run right until the jets, float and air mixture are set for your engine. Budget the time for that tuning, compare your original layout and cable connection to the photo, and you are starting from a fair place. Expect to adjust, not just bolt and ride.
The one-box appeal: carburetor, intake manifold, fuel filter and mounting hardware together — a full top-end fuel fix in a single order.
The tune is on you: installation and leakage reports are mixed, so plan for a proper jetting and float-height session before you trust it on a trail.
Buy it when: the carb is gummed or missing and you want the intake included in the same box.
Know going in: this is a part for a patient tuner — it will not run right without adjustment time.
8. Caltric Stator and Gasket Yamaha Warrior 350
When the battery is fine but the spark is weak, the stator is the part that stops your Warrior from charging.
A stator is the charging side of your ignition — the coil assembly inside the engine that generates the electrical power your Warrior runs on. When it fails, the battery drains, the lights dim and eventually the quad does not start at all. This Caltric part ships as one stator plus one gasket, which is the exact pair you need for the job. No guesswork on the gasket, which is the small paper seal that keeps oil inside the case.
What stands out is the functionality: owners mention the part works as it should, and the gasket seals properly. Improved power delivery gets called out too, meaning the fresh stator does its job of feeding the electrical system. Stated fitment is Warrior 350 YFM350 across 1996-2001 specifically, so this one demands a year check. List your machine’s model year before you order, because the 1987-1995 machines are not covered in the listing.
There is a fitment detail to know: installation experiences are mixed, and a common snag is the stator plug not snapping cleanly into the factory connector. That is a wiring-loom mismatch, not a bad stator, and the fix is usually repinning or splicing the connector. If you are handy with a soldering iron it is a five-minute job; if you are not, budget for a shop visit. Value for money splits opinion too, with some finding it fair and others expecting more for the spend.
Why it’s on the list
- Ships as a stator and gasket pair — no separate seal order
- Charging output and gasket sealing get strong feedback
- 1996-2001 Warrior 350 fitment is clearly stated
What to plan for
- Plug may need repinning to match your factory connector
- Only covers 1996-2001, so earlier Warriors need a different part
Matches: a 1996-2001 Warrior 350 with a charging or spark fault and a gasket to replace while you are in there.
Handle with care: the connector is the known snag — check the wiring before you assume the stator is at fault.
9. Edwards Oil Change Kit fits 1988-2004 Yamaha Warrior 350 ATV
Yamalube 10W-40 oil, an oil filter and the sealing o-rings in one kit for a routine Warrior 350 service.
Every other part in this guide exists because something wore out. Oil is how you slow that down. This Edwards kit bundles the consumables for a routine service: the oil, an oil filter and the o-rings you need to seal it back up. The oil is Yamalube AP 10W-40 — Yamaha’s own blended grade for ATV service, and the 10W figure (the cold-start thickness rating) tells you it flows in colder starts.
Fitment is stated for 1988-2004 Yamaha Warrior 350 ATVs, which is the practical production window you are working with. The kit carries a 30-day warranty from the maker. Two liquid volume figures appear on the listing — the product description says 2 quarts and a separate spec line lists 3 quarts — so read the bottle count on arrival and confirm it matches what you expect for your fill.
There is no review write-up on this kit, so judge it on the oil grade and the bottle count in the box. The honest read is that this is a convenience buy. The oil grade and filter are correct for the machine, and buying them as a set saves you a separate trip or cart. Just confirm the volume in the box before you drain your sump, so you are not short a quart with a dry engine.
The case for it: Yamalube AP 10W-40 oil, filter and o-rings paired for 1988-2004 Warrior 350s — one order, one service.
Check the volume: the listing states both 2 and 3 quarts in different spots, so verify the bottle count before you start draining.
Made for: a routine oil change where you want the right grade and the filter in one box.
Confirm first: count the bottles against the volume you need — the listing’s quart figures do not agree with each other.
Know the Specs
OEM part numbers
The string of letters and digits on every listing — like 4SH-81800-00 or 3GD-2580T-01-00 — is the factory code for one specific part. It is the only reliable way to know a part fits your Warrior. Model names are loose; part numbers are precise. Write down your original number and match it to the listing’s “replaces” line.
Year range and fitment
The Warrior 350 ran from 1987 to 2004, and many parts only cover part of that run. A stator for 1996-2001 will not help a 1990 machine. Always check the listed years against your quad’s model year, and treat a wide range as a prompt to double-check rather than a guarantee.
Voltage, rotation and tooth count
A starter’s spec line tells you three things: voltage (12V), rotation direction (CCW) and tooth count (9). Those describe how the motor spins and how its gear meshes with the flywheel. Wrong rotation or tooth count means a starter that turns but will not start the engine.
Material and construction
Alloy steel chains, aluminum intake boots, metal starter bodies — the material tells you how the part behaves. Aluminum is rigid and resists cracks but is less forgiving of misalignment. Rubber gives more but splits with age. Neither is universally better; it depends on the surface it mates to.
Common Questions
Will the OEG starter fit my 1995 Warrior 350?
What is the difference between the M MATI and OLIFANT brake calipers?
How long does a stator usually last on a Warrior 350?
Do I need to rejet a new carburetor?
Is an aluminum intake boot better than the factory rubber one?
Can I replace just the starter motor without the relay solenoid?
How do I know if my Warrior 350 needs a new drive chain?
What oil grade does the Edwards kit use for the Warrior 350?
Do brake calipers need bleeding after installation?
Are these parts only for the Warrior 350 or do they fit other Yamaha quads?
The Bottom Line
The crowd favorite in this lineup is the OEG Parts Starter, sitting at 4.5+ stars across 400+ owners — the highest-graded starter you can buy here, and the one to grab first if your Warrior clicks instead of cranks. If it is the front brakes that are tired, the OLIFANT Front Brake Calipers edge the M MATI pair on score, though the M MATI gives you the exact mounting bracket. And for a top-end fuel fix, the FYIYI YFM350 Carburetor brings the intake and filter in the same box — just budget the tuning time it will ask for.
How we choose
We do not accept paid placement. Every pick is matched to a real buyer and a real use-case; we do not hands-on test units.
Sources
Specifications: manufacturer listings and product documentation. Review insights: verified customer reviews, as of November 2026. Pricing: not shown on this page (it changes often); check the current price via the retailer link.
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