Specs are compiled from manufacturer listings and verified buyer reviews and can change over time — please confirm the key details on the product page before buying.
A part that fits is worth ten that almost fit. If you ride a Yamaha, the single biggest waste of a Saturday is buying a filter, petcock or peg that shows up with the wrong bolt spacing or the wrong thread, because you either send it back or you force it and damage the bike. This guide covers the small components that actually keep a Yamaha running — oil and air filtration, fuel delivery, brakes, bodywork fasteners, foot pegs and the battery — and it tells you plainly which ones match your machine.
This guide is built by comparing the manufacturers’ published specifications and the patterns across verified customer reviews, so you get each pick’s real strengths and trade-offs instead of marketing spin.
Every part here is matched by its OEM number to a real Yamaha model range, so you can check your own machine before you buy. Below you will find the exact fitment years, the part numbers each item replaces, and where owners say it went straight on — a practical shortlist of the best yamaha motorcycle parts for keeping an older or newer bike on the road.
Top Picks
How To Choose The Best Yamaha Motorcycle Parts
Yamaha builds a lot of machines that share a name but not a part. A Big Bear 350 from 1987 and a Big Bear 450 from 2007 are not the same bike underneath, so a part listing that only says “Yamaha ATV” is nearly useless to you. The three checks below are what separate a part you bolt on in half an hour from one that goes back in the box.
Start with the OEM number, not the photo
Manufacturers assign every component a factory part number, and it is the only identifier that survives a photograph. The primary fuel filter here carries #6D8-WS24A-00-00, for example, and that number tells you far more than a picture of a white plastic cylinder. Match your own part number — usually stamped on the old component or printed in your service manual — against the number on the listing before you commit.
Watch for superseded numbers too. A part can carry a new number that replaces the old one, exactly as the fuel filter replaces #6D8-24563-00-00. If your manual shows the older figure, the newer one is the one to buy.
Confirm the year range against your own model year
Fitment lists are written as year ranges, and a range is only useful if your bike falls inside it. The air filter kit here covers the Big Bear 350 (YFM350) from 1987 to 1999 and the Kodiak 400 (YFM400) from 1993 to 1999, for instance. A 2001 Kodiak is a different machine, so you need a different filter. Write your exact model code and year on a sticky note before you start shopping.
Know which specs actually change how the part performs
A bolt is a bolt until the grade matters — the body kit here is a 10.9 grade heat treated fastener, which is a strength class rather than a cosmetic detail. On a battery, 125 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA — the burst of current that turns a cold engine over) tells you about starting power, while 10 amp-hours tells you about stored capacity. On an oil filter, dirt-holding capacity and particle size retention describe how much grit the media captures before it clogs. Checking these numbers before you order saves a return.
Side-by-Side Comparison
| Model | Best For | OEM Part Number | Yamaha Fitment | Key Spec | Amazon |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yamaha Oil Filter #5GH-13440-71-00★ Best Overall | Routine oil changes | 5GH-13440-71-00 | Vehicle specific fit | Steel body, 6.38 oz | Amazon |
| Front Brake Master CylinderBest Value | ATV brake rebuilds | 4WV-25870-00-00 | Banshee 350, Big Bear, Grizzly, Raptor, YFZ450 | Chrome finish, 440 g | Amazon |
| Air Filter Kit 1YW-14458-01-00Top Performer | Older utility ATVs | 1YW-14458-01-00 | Big Bear 350, Kodiak 400, Moto-4, Timberwolf 250 | 3-piece kit, 365-day warranty | Amazon |
| Yamaha Primary Fuel Filter | Keeping junk out of the carburetor | 6D8-WS24A-00-00 | Vehicle specific fit | Plastic body, 9.07 g | Amazon |
| 62pc Specbolt Body Bolt Kit | Refreshing plastics and bodywork | — | YZ, YZF, WR two- and four-stroke line | 62 M6 bolts, 10.9 grade | Amazon |
| Fuel Valve Petcock | Cruisers and utility ATVs | 21V-24500-20-00 | V Star 650/1100, Royal Star 1300, Road Star 1700, Raptor, Warrior | Metal body, chrome finish | Amazon |
| AHL Fuel Pump | XV250 and Virago fuel delivery | 3DM-13910-01-00 | XV250, XV125, Virago, Route 66, V-Star 250 | 12v inline, 4-wire | Amazon |
| MZS Dirt Bike Foot Pegs | Grip and control on the pegs | MZS Dirt Bike Footpegs YZ-01-BL | YZ65, YZ85, YZ125, YZ250F, YZ450F, WR250F, WR450F | 7075 aluminum, 11.52 oz | Amazon |
| Mighty Max YT12B-4 Battery | Reliable starting on a V-Star | YT12B-4 | Yamaha 650CC XVS650 V-Star 1998-2011 | 12V 10AH, 125 CCA | Amazon |
Detailed Reviews
1. Yamaha Oil Filter, #5GH-13440-71-00
Our pick — 4.5+★ from 550+ verified ratings; the strongest balance of quality and price.
The cheapest part in the box you should never gamble on — a genuine Yamaha filter with a real part number.
Most people never think about the oil filter until the oil comes out looking like mud. This is the one component that stands between metal grit and your bearings, and it is the one home mechanics most often get wrong by buying a generic can that threads on but is not built to hold the same amount of dirt. Yamaha’s own filter carries the number 5GH-13440-71-00, and that number is the reason it belongs at the top of this list.
What you get is a steel-bodied filter built by Yamaha Motor to hold a larger volume of trapped dirt before it clogs — the listing calls it increased dirt-holding capacity — and to capture finer particles than a budget can. In plain terms, your oil flows clean for longer between changes, and the engine wears more slowly. It weighs 6.38 ounces, which is a normal size for a bike filter and tells you it is a solid metal can rather than thin stamped shell. Fitment is listed as vehicle specific, so the part number is your check, not the picture.
The one honest catch is that this is a single filter, and the number is not listed as interchangeable with other brands or fitments. If your Yamaha takes this spec, it threads straight on; if not, you need a different part number. Order the number your manual lists and there is nothing else to think about.
What wins people over: it goes on without a fuss and does the job, and the price sits comfortably in genuine-OEM territory rather than premium territory — buyers consistently describe the fit and the function in the same breath as the value.
Reach for this if: you are doing your own oil change on a Yamaha and want a genuine factory filter at a sensible price.
Skip past it if: your manual calls for a different Yamaha filter number — this one is specific, not universal.
2. Front Brake Master Cylinder Yamaha Banshee 350
A right-side lever assembly for the ATV crowd that needs a brake that bites without a rebuild headache.
Yamaha ATV riders keep these machines far past the point where the original lever gets sticky, and a spongy front brake turns a trail day into a slow crawl. This is the replacement master cylinder — the part that turns your hand squeeze into hydraulic pressure at the caliper — and it covers a long run of utility and sport ATVs. The Banshee 350 from 1987 to 2006, the Big Bear 450 from 2007 to 2014, the Grizzly and Kodiak 450, the Raptor, Timberwolf, Wolverine and YFZ450 all appear in its fitment list, so a lot of sheds hold a machine this cylinder will serve.
It replaces part number 4WV-25870-00-00, mounts on the right side facing the front tire, and uses a banjo bolt (the hollow bolt that lets brake fluid pass through the hose fitting). Installation is listed as plug and play, and the maker puts the job at 30 minutes or less. The body carries a chrome finish, and it weighs 440 grams. For contrast, the Yamaha primary fuel filter on this list weighs 9.07 grams — the brake cylinder is the noticeably heavier, more substantial hardware of the two.
The fit is thoroughly praised and the install is generally a straight bolt-up job — the maker does ask that you install it to professional requirements, so bleeding the system properly is on you. If you are not comfortable with brake hydraulics, this is a job for someone who is.
Where the strength shows
- Fitment spans decades of Yamaha ATVs, from the 1987 Banshee 350 to the 2014 Big Bear 450
- Replaces 4WV-25870-00-00, the number you can cross-check against your old unit
- Banjo bolt lever mount is a familiar layout, so the swap is quick for anyone who has done brakes
What you should know first
- Brake bleeding is part of the job, and the maker flags that professional installation requirements apply
- Model specific and size specific handle compatibility — there is no universal fit here
The verdict in one line: if your ATV front brake has gone soft and your model is on the list, this restores a firm lever without a full rebuild.
The caveat worth knowing: the job ends with a brake bleed, so budget the time even though the swap itself is quick.
3. Air Filter & Guide & End Cap Kit Yamaha Big Bear 350
Three parts in one bag, because the filter is never the only thing that wears out in the air box.
Here is the mistake a lot of owners make on older utility quads: they buy the filter alone, then discover the guide and end cap are cracked or warped and the new filter will not seat. MOTO1988 sells the whole set — one air filter, one guide and one end cap — under part number 1YW-14458-01-00, and that packaging decision saves a second shipping wait.
Coverage runs from the Big Bear 350 (YFM350) built 1987 to 1999, the Kodiak 400 (YFM400) 1993 to 1999, the Moto-4 250 (YFM250) 1989 to 1991, the Moto-4 350 1987 to 1995, and the Timberwolf 250 (YFB250) 1992 to 2000. It replaces 1YW-14451-00-00 and 1UY-14468-00-00, so if your old box shows either number you are on the right track. The kit also comes with a 365-day warranty and a listed 24-hour response channel, which is more backup than most small parts ship with.
Owners describe the fit as exact and the part as matching the listing — which is the whole game when a filter has to seal against a housing. The trade-off is the opposite face of that strength: this kit is pinned to a specific generation of utility ATVs, and later Kodiak or newer Big Bear machines take a different filter entirely. Check your model code and year before you order, not after.
The kit logic: buying the guide and end cap together with the filter means a worn housing does not strand you mid-job.
The honest note: it looks like a filter to anyone glancing at it, but the part number is the only thing that confirms it belongs in your machine’s air box.
Pick it for: an older Big Bear, Kodiak, Moto-4 or Timberwolf that needs the air box refreshed in one go.
Look elsewhere for: modern Yamaha quads outside the listed year ranges — this is a generation-specific part.
4. Yamaha Primary Fuel Filter, #6D8-WS24A-00-00
Nine grams of plastic that decides whether clean fuel or tank sediment reaches your carburetor.
This is Yamaha’s genuine primary fuel filter, and the number on it is 6D8-WS24A-00-00. It also supersedes the older 6D8-24563-00-00, which means if your service manual lists that earlier figure, this is the current replacement and you buy this one.
Physically it is modest — a plastic body with an item weight of 9.07 grams. That lightness is the point: it is a small inline component that sits in the fuel line, and it is built by Yamaha Motor to the specifications for fit, form and function rather than to a generic dimension. Put against the front brake master cylinder here at 440 grams, the filter is a far lighter, hands-in-the-line piece of hardware. Installation is straightforward and the part is designed to bolt or clip into place as the original did.
What earns the premium label is consistency of quality — this is a factory part, not a lookalike, and the job it does is keep debris from travelling downstream into the carburetor. Fit, function and factory quality are all rated highly by buyers. The catch is simply that a genuine part is a genuine part: cheap substitutes exist and this is deliberately not one of them, so you are paying a little more for the exact piece.
Why this one earns its place
- Genuine Yamaha Motor part, so the fit, form and function follow factory specification
- Supersedes #6D8-24563-00-00, so older manuals still point you to a correct buy
- Inline plastic design weighs just 9.07 grams and slots into the existing fuel line
The honest trade-off
- Vehicle specific fitment — the part number has to match your Yamaha, and it is not listed as interchangeable
- It is a small, easily lost component, so order the spare before the old one fails roadside
Best for: the rider who would rather pay for a factory filter than gamble on a generic one and chase a mystery misfire later.
Not for: anyone whose manual shows a different filter number — confirm before you buy.
5. 62pc Specbolt YZ YZF WR Body Bolt Kit
Sixty-two bolts that turn a scruffy plastics job into a factory-looking rebuild.
Riding off-road means losing bolts, and losing bolts means a fender flapping or a shroud vibrating loose at the worst moment. Specbolt’s answer is a 62-piece kit of factory-fit flange bolts covering the YZ, YZF and WR bodywork — plastics, seat, fenders, fork guards and radiator shrouds. The bolt you actually need is almost always M6, and this kit is all M6, so there is no hunting through mixed sizes.
What separates these from a hardware-store bin is grade and finish. The fasteners are 10.9 grade heat treated, meaning a high strength class rather than soft general-purpose steel, and they carry zinc plating described as rust resistant. The heads are a mix of OE matching wide head flange bolts and original type reduced head flange bolts, plus fork guard bolts — so heads sit the way the factory intended rather than standing proud. Six millimeters is the fastener and groove diameter throughout, and socket head is the drive type.
Where it gets real is the mixed picture on accuracy. The fit and the filling-in of missing or lost parts win consistent praise, and most buyers treat the kit as good value. Not every thread is a perfect match for every sub-model, though, so cross-check against the bike you actually own rather than assuming one kit covers every YZ and WR variant. When the threads line up, the plastics sit flush and the rebuild looks factory.
Standout detail: 62 M6 bolts in one box, all 10.9 grade heat treated and zinc plated, is the depth you rarely get from a single hardware pack.
Read this before ordering: thread compatibility varies across the YZ, YZF and WR range, so confirm the specific model before you rely on the full set.
Worth it when: you are refreshing plastics on a Yamaha motocross or enduro bike and want the hardware to look factory again.
Think twice when: your sub-model has unusual thread pitches — check first, because the set is fixed rather than adjustable.
6. Fuel Valve Petcock Yamaha V Star XVS 650
For the cruiser owner whose fuel tap has started to weep — a metal-bodied replacement with a long fitment list.
A petcock is the fuel tap on your tank: it is the small valve that lets fuel down to the engine and shuts it off. When it starts leaking, you smell gas in the garage and the bike sits wet, and the fix is a direct swap. MOTO1988 builds this one in metal with a chrome finish under part number 21V-24500-20-00, and it also cross-references 4WM-24500-10-00.
Fitment covers a genuinely long list of V-twin machinery — the V-Star 650 XVS650 from 1998 to 2016, the Silverado 650 from 2004 to 2010, the V Star 1100 from 1999 to 2009, the Royal Star 1300 from 2005 to 2013, and the Road Star 1700 Silverado 1700 from 2004 to 2007. Utility riders are covered too, with the Wolverine 350, Raptor 350, Warrior 350 and several Moto-4 models on the list. The connection is threaded, so it threads onto the tank outlet as the original did.
Installation is where this part shines — as buyers report, one customer had it on in under five minutes. Buyers rate the chrome-finished metal body above the factory valve. The honest catch is that leak results are mixed: some units seal cleanly from day one, others have needed attention. Fit it carefully, check the seal, and treat this as a component worth inspecting right after you install it. If a unit does not seal, the valve is covered by a 90-day warranty.
What owners highlight: the metal build and chrome look, plus an install so quick it barely counts as a project.
The point to watch: leak outcomes vary between units, so test the seal before you fill the tank and ride.
Grab this if: your V-Star, Royal Star or Road Star fuel tap has started to smell, and you want a metal-bodied replacement with a fast install.
Handle with care if: you want a set-and-forget part — check the seal on arrival, because not every unit comes from the start dry.
7. AHL Fuel Pump 3DM-13910-01-00 Yamaha XV250 Virago
The small electric pump that keeps a Virago fed when the original has quietly given up.
When a fuel pump dies, the symptom is usually a bike that starts on choke and then starves as soon as you ask for throttle. This AHL unit is a 12-volt inline, 4-wire high-flow pump built as the replacement for a run of small Yamaha V-twins and singles. The OEM cross-reference list is long: 3DM-13910-01-00, 2UJ-13910-00, 3DM-13910-00, 3DM-13910-10-00 and 3DM-13910-11-00 all appear, so an old manual listing any of those numbers points here.
Fitment reaches the XV250 Virago, the XV125, the Route 66, and the V-Star 250 from 2008 to 2023, along with several Virago variants across the late eighties and nineties. The body is metal and plastic, it uses hose barb inlet and barb connections (the ribbed spouts a fuel line pushes onto and clamps), and it weighs 0.25 kilograms. It pulls gasoline from the tank and returns enough to keep pressure steady, which is how an inline electric pump on a carbureted bike keeps the float bowl full.
The practical trade-off here is information rather than the part itself — this is a cross-reference-heavy listing with no drawn-out review history to lean on, so confirming the model and size before ordering carries the weight. Measure the old pump, compare the numbers, and the swap follows. Riders on a V-Star 250 or an older Virago get a direct replacement path; anyone else should read the fitment list twice.
Choose it for: an XV250, XV125, Virago or V-Star 250 that has lost fuel pressure and needs a matching inline pump.
Confirm first if: you ride a different Yamaha — this pump is cross-referenced by OEM number, not by a universal fit claim.
8. MZS Dirt Bike Foot Pegs YZ65
Wide, pinned and blue — the peg upgrade that decides how planted your boots feel in the ruts.
Stock pegs are one of those parts you never notice until a wet day, when your boot slides and you lose the line. MZS builds these in 7075 aluminum alloy using an integrated CNC process, which is a machined rather than cast construction. That alloy brings good corrosion resistance and higher tensile and yield strength, so the peg holds its shape when it takes a hit rather than bending. The pair weighs 11.52 ounces.
The grip comes from stainless steel coned shaped cleats in an OEM motocross style layout — the pointed pins bite into the sole and add friction. More friction at the peg means better bike control, which is a real safety point when you are standing through rough ground. The skeleton grid, wide MX platform is listed for models including the YZ65, YZ85, YZ125, YZ125X, YZ250, YZ250F, YZ250FX, YZ250X, YZ426F, YZ450F, YZ450FX, WR250F and WR450F. Installation is a case of aligning the bracket hole with the mounting hole and tightening the stock screw and spring.
Where these separate from a stock set is width and adjustability, and that cuts both ways. A wider platform suits a rider in wide boots, though the same width is not for everyone, and some models have reported mounting holes that do not line up with the frame. Check the fitment list against your exact model and year before ordering. When the holes line up, the wider platform gives a firmer stand and a cleaner look.
What the peg brings
- 7075 aluminum alloy with CNC machining for a peg that resists bending on impact
- Stainless steel coned cleats add friction for firmer footing and steadier control
- Simple swap using the stock screw and spring, no special hardware
Where it can trip you up
- Fitment and adjustability are mixed — width suits wide boots and some riders find it too broad
- Mounting holes have not lined up with the frame on every listed model, so verify your year first
Best suited to: an MX or enduro rider on a YZ or WR who wants a wider, pinned platform and a firmer stand.
Worth a second look if: you ride a listed model year where the holes have not seated cleanly — confirm before you commit.
9. Mighty Max Battery YT12B-4 SLA 12V 10AH
The one part on this list you will replace on a schedule, and the one that decides whether the bike turns over.
Batteries fail quietly, then all at once. This is the Mighty Max YT12B-4, a 12-volt 10 amp-hour sealed lead acid battery rated at 125 Cold Cranking Amps, and it is built for the Yamaha 650CC XVS650 V-Star from 1998 to 2011. Read those two ratings separately: amp-hours measure how much charge the battery stores, and cold cranking amps measure the burst it can deliver to turn a cold engine over. On a V-twin, that second figure is what actually gets you started.
It is a sealed lead acid battery, also described as AGM — the absorbed glass mat construction that keeps the electrolyte held in the matting rather than sloshing as liquid. That means you can mount it in any position, and it resists shocks and vibration, which matters on a bike that shakes. Dimensions are 6.00 inches long, 2.75 inches wide and 5.25 inches tall, so measure your battery box before you order. Polarity is positive on the left, negative on the right, and the listing covers the battery and screws only — no wire harness, no mounting accessories.
Here is the honest part: battery life draws the most discussion of any attribute on this unit, and it is a genuinely split picture. Some riders get a strong start straight from the start; others find it does not hold charge as well over time. Fit and value land well, and the install is a straightforward job. The practical read is that this is a reliable, budget-friendly replacement for a V-Star that needs a fresh battery now, backed by a one-year warranty — but expect to replace it on a schedule rather than treating it as a lifetime part.
Value read: fit, ease of installation and cost are all solid, which is what you want from a consumable part.
Set your expectations: charge retention varies unit to unit, so keep a tender on the bike during lay-up and the one-year warranty gives you some cover.
For the rider who: owns a 1998–2011 XVS650 V-Star and wants a correctly specced, budget-friendly battery in the bike today.
Not the move if: you want maximum charge retention above all else — treat this as a scheduled-replacement pick, not a permanent one.
Know the Specs
OEM Part Numbers and Cross-References
An OEM number is the factory’s own identifier for a component, and it is the only reliable way to know a part fits — a photo can look identical across two different bikes. Cross-references take this further: a current part may supersede an older number, as the fuel filter here replaces #6D8-24563-00-00. When a listing shows several numbers, those are the alternative codes your manual or an older parts book may use. Check the numbers before you buy, not after.
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) and Amp-Hours
Cold Cranking Amps measure the current a battery can deliver in a short burst to spin a cold engine, and the YT12B-4 here is rated at 125 CCA. Amp-hours measure stored capacity instead — 10 amp-hours on the same battery. A higher CCA is about starting power; a higher amp-hour figure is about how long the battery can feed a load. For a motorcycle you mainly care about the CCA rating for starting and the physical dimensions for fitting the box.
Filtration Ratings
Oil and air filters are judged on two things: how much dirt they can hold before they clog, and how small a particle they can trap. The Yamaha oil filter here is listed with increased dirt-holding capacity and high particle size retention, which together mean the oil stays clean longer between changes. An air filter that seals badly lets grit straight into the engine regardless of its media, which is why the guide and end cap in the MOTO1988 kit matter as much as the filter element itself.
Fastener Grade and Material
A bolt’s grade rating tells you its strength class, and the Specbolt kit is Grade 10.9 heat treated with rust resistant zinc plating — both figures describe durability, not looks. On pegs, 7075 aluminum alloy carries higher tensile and yield strength than softer alloys, so it resists bending when it strikes a rock. Stainless steel cleats add friction at the boot interface. These materials matter more than the shape of the part when you are choosing between two similar-looking options.
Common Questions
How do I know a part will actually fit my Yamaha?
Does my Yamaha V-Star 650 take the YT12B-4 battery?
Is a 10 amp-hour motorcycle battery strong enough to start a V-twin?
What does a fuel petcock do, and why does mine leak?
Can I install a front brake master cylinder myself?
Are the Specbolt body bolts the right thread for every YZ and WR model?
Will wider foot pegs fit my boots and my bike?
How often should I replace the oil filter on a Yamaha?
Do I need a fuel pump on a carbureted Yamaha, or does gravity do the job?
Should I buy a genuine Yamaha part or a cheaper replacement?
The Bottom Line
For most riders keeping a Yamaha alive, the safest single purchase is the Yamaha Oil Filter #5GH-13440-71-00, because it is a genuine factory part with a real OEM number and it goes on without guesswork at every oil change. If your problem is fuel rather than oil, reach for the Yamaha Primary Fuel Filter #6D8-WS24A-00-00 — nine grams of plastic that keeps tank grit out of the carburetor. And if you need the front brake to feel firm again on an older ATV, the Front Brake Master Cylinder is the pick that covers the longest list of Yamaha models.
Every one of these parts earns its place on the same principle: a matching OEM number and a year range that includes your machine. Check those two things before you buy, and the best Yamaha Motorcycle Parts shortlist here becomes a straightforward shopping list rather than a gamble.
How we choose
We do not accept paid placement. Every pick is matched to a real buyer and a real use-case; we do not hands-on test units.
Sources
Specifications: manufacturer listings and product documentation. Review insights: verified customer reviews, as of November 2026. Pricing: not shown on this page (it changes often); check the current price via the retailer link.
As an Amazon Associate, Tactical Gear Guy earns from qualifying purchases. This does not affect which products we feature.