How to Replace an Xbox One Power Supply? | Know Your Model

The replacement depends on the console: the original Xbox One takes an external power brick, while the One S and One X hold internal power supplies.

Microsoft no longer manufactures the original Xbox One or its power supply, and out-of-warranty support for that model has ended — so a dead brick can sideline a working console. Whether replacing an Xbox One power supply means buying a new brick or handing the machine to a technician depends on the model. Below: how to tell them apart, the free reset, and the compatibility mistake that voids warranties.

Which Xbox One Models Use An External Power Supply?

Only the original Xbox One uses an external PSU — the black brick between the wall outlet and the console. The Xbox One S and Xbox One X carry their power supplies inside the chassis, so there is no brick to swap.

That split decides your repair path. Microsoft warns it does not license non-Microsoft accessories that plug into the Xbox One power socket, and an unlicensed unit can damage the console and void the warranty. A connector that fits proves nothing. Microsoft also publishes no wattage, voltage, or part number for the original brick, so any spec on a retail listing came from the seller.

Microsoft states the internal supplies in the One S and One X work in all regions, but that does not make third-party replacements interchangeable. An internal swap must match the exact model and board revision.

Does The 10-Second Reset Actually Fix A Dead Brick?

Sometimes. The reset is a test, not a cure, and it costs two minutes and nothing else. Microsoft’s power supply reset steps run in a fixed order.

1. Unplug the power cable from the console, the wall outlet, and the power supply.
3. Plug the power cable back into the wall outlet and the PSU. Leave the console disconnected.
4. Check the LED on the power supply. A lit light with the console unplugged means the brick is getting power.
5. Reconnect the console and press the power button.

If the console powers on, you are done. If it stays dark after the LED check, Microsoft’s guidance says the PSU may need replacement or service.

A badly connected or faulty PSU is one listed reason an Xbox will not turn on. Blocked ventilation and other console faults cause identical symptoms, so test a different wall outlet and power cord first — both cost nothing.

One hard rule: never reconnect a PSU that smells burnt, rattles, shows scorch marks, or trips a breaker. Keep the brick out of closed shelves, too — Microsoft’s original-PSU documentation covers placement and airflow because trapped heat shortens its life.

Getting A Replacement That Fits

Microsoft publishes no consumer removal-and-install guide for any Xbox One power supply. The documented option is service; for the original console, the practical move is a brick built for that exact model.

Coverage comes first. Registered owners can sign in to their Microsoft account, open Devices, choose the console, and read the warranty status. In-warranty repairs are free, out-of-warranty work carries a fee, and Microsoft Authorized Service Providers fit genuine Microsoft parts where those parts can be sourced.

Microsoft’s self-repair program covers some out-of-warranty Xbox devices and ships components in selected markets only. Its page makes no promise about Xbox One power supplies, so treat it as a maybe.

For an original Xbox One: unplug everything, run the 10-second reset, inspect the wall cable and both connectors, fit the replacement, then test startup. Ignore “universal” bricks that list every model in the title. Readers who want to compare units rather than gamble on one can start with these tested Xbox power supply replacement picks.

On an Xbox One S or One X, internal replacement means opening a chassis around mains-powered parts. Have a qualified technician handle it, or book service through Microsoft.