Specs are compiled from manufacturer listings and verified buyer reviews and can change over time — please confirm the key details on the product page before buying.
Your Series S went dark mid-match, and the console is fine — the brick inside it failed. That brick is the internal power supply that turns wall current into the 12-volt feed your console needs, and replacing it is the whole point of this shortlist. Three units fit the Series S, and they are not equally good bets.
This guide is built by comparing the manufacturers’ published specifications and the patterns across verified customer reviews, so you get each pick’s real strengths and trade-offs instead of marketing spin.
The quick answer: the Gorliskl replacement is the safest buy here, because it ships with both screwdrivers you need and the strongest owner record of the three. Below you will find exactly what separates these three xbox s power supply bricks, from amperage to included tools.
Top Picks
How To Choose The Best Xbox S Power Supply
A Series S power supply is not a charger you plug into the outside of the console. It is a brick that lives inside the case, and you have to open the machine to swap it. That single fact drives every decision below, because the wrong brick either will not fit or will not feed the board correctly.
Confirm the console before anything else
The Series S and the Series X use different power arrangements. Two of these bricks state compatibility with the Series S only and warn you off the Series X and the One S. Check the model number on the back of your console first — the Series S is the small white box, and the 1921 module designation is the one the LeHang unit names.
Read the input and output numbers
The Gorliskl brick lists a 2.3 A amperage rating (amps, the measure of current the brick draws) and an input range up to 240 volts. The Shenzhen-made unit lists 100V-240V at 2.3A and 50/60Hz on the input, with a +12V, 13.75A output. Those output figures are what the console board actually consumes, so they are the numbers to compare against your old brick.
Count the tools in the box
Opening a Series S needs a specific driver. The Gorliskl package includes a T8 screwdriver and a cross screwdriver, which covers both fastener types you meet inside. The Shenzhen unit ships a power cable, a thermal pad and a set of repair tools. The LeHang module includes no instructions and points you to a professional technician. If you plan to do this yourself, the tool bundle is the difference between a one-evening job and a stalled one.
Side-by-Side Comparison
| Model | Best For | Amperage | Input Voltage | Included Tools | Amazon |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gorliskl Replacement Internal Power Supply★ Best Overall | First-time self-installers | 2.3 A | AC 100-240V | T8 and cross screwdrivers | Amazon |
| Shenzhen Replacement for Xbox Series S | Full repair kit on a budget | 2.3 A | 100V-240V | Power cable, thermal pad, tool set | Amazon |
| LeHang AC Power Supply Adapter 1921 Module | Shop-assisted replacements | — | — | None | Amazon |
Detailed Reviews
1. Gorliskl Power Supply for Xbox Series S
Our pick — 4.0+★ from 30+ verified ratings; the strongest balance of quality and price.
The brick that ships with the two screwdrivers you actually need to get inside.
Here is the number that decides it: 2.3 A. That is the amperage rating (the current the brick draws from your wall socket), and it is the same figure the Shenzhen unit below lists. What separates the Gorliskl is what lands in the box — a T8 screwdriver, a cross screwdriver, the power supply itself and a power cord. You do not need to own a precision driver set to start the job the day it arrives.
Getting power back is the whole reason you are shopping, and this is where the unit earns its place. Buyers report the random shutdowns stopping once the new brick is fitted. One review describes a Series S that had been cutting out at random, fixed by this swap. The input range spans AC 100-240V, so the same brick works whether you are on North American two-pin power or travelling somewhere with a different wall voltage.
What wins people over is the power delivery — the point reviewers keep returning to — with the straightforward install close behind. The plastic enclosure is not going to feel like a machined part, and the honest limit is the job itself: this is an internal brick, so the console case has to come open. If you have never taken a console apart, budget an evening and follow a teardown video slowly rather than rushing the clips.
What earns it the top slot
- 2.3 A amperage rating matches the other Series S brick here, so the power draw is a known quantity
- T8 and cross screwdrivers included — both fastener types inside the console are covered
- Input rated AC 100-240V, so it handles a wide spread of wall voltages
- Owners mention random shutdowns stopping after the swap
- Type A two-pin North American plug, ready for a standard US outlet
Where it asks more of you
- It is an internal part, so the console case has to be opened to fit it
- Plastic enclosure rather than a metal shell
- Fitting mistakes are on you — no instructions are promised beyond the tools
Reach for this if: you want one box with the brick, the cord and both screwdrivers so the repair can happen the same night.
Look elsewhere if: you would rather not open the console at all — the tool bundle does not make the internal swap external.
2. Shenzhen Power Supply for Xbox Series S
The one that lists its output figures out loud — 12 volts at 13.75 amps.
Most listings hide the output spec. This one prints it: +12V and 13.75A on the output side, with a 100V-240V, 2.3A, 50/60Hz input. Those are the numbers the console board actually sees, and having them on the page lets you hold them against your dead brick before you spend anything. The 2.3A input figure is identical to the Gorliskl above, so on paper the draw is the same story.
The box goes further than a brick and a cord. You also get a thermal pad, which is the squishy pad that sits between the power component and the console’s heatsink (the metal block that carries heat away), plus a set of repair tools for opening the case. The power cable is included so a worn or loose original cord gets replaced at the same time. It is pitched squarely at the console that will not turn on, shuts down on its own, shows an odd power light, or simply will not hold power.
The catch is honesty from the maker themselves: if you have no installation experience, they suggest handing it to a professional. That is a fair warning, because the lower owner score here reflects a unit that has not pleased everyone the way the top pick has. Treat this as the kit for someone comfortable with a screwdriver who wants the thermal pad and cable bundled in, not the safest first attempt for a total novice.
The kit argument: a power supply, a fresh cable, a thermal pad and repair tools in one order covers the whole job, and the printed +12V 13.75A output makes the compatibility check easy.
The honest caveat: the maker points inexperienced buyers toward a technician, and the owner score sits below the Gorliskl’s — so weigh your comfort with opening a console before choosing this one.
Best for the confident tinkerer: someone who wants the thermal pad and cable in the same box and can read an output spec.
Think twice if: this is your first console repair — the manufacturer’s own advice is to use a professional.
3. LeHang 1921 Module for Xbox Series S
Named for the exact module number, and backed for 90 days.
If you like matching part numbers, this is the one that names them. The LeHang unit is sold as the 1921 module replacement for the Microsoft Xbox Series S, and it tells you plainly to check your machine model before ordering. Fit it and the dead module comes out, the new one goes in, and the console is meant to run again without you buying a whole new machine. Its 90-day manufacturer warranty is the longest stated cover of the three.
Where it falls short of the Gorliskl is in the box. There are no instructions and no screwdrivers listed here — the listing points you to a professional technician for the install. That matters because the internal swap needs the console opened, and unlike the top pick you will be sourcing your own tools. The listing also warns that the part is fragile and can be damaged in shipping, and asks you to make contact first if anything is wrong.
It is a black single-count unit with a Type A two-pin North American plug, and it is compatible with the Microsoft Xbox Series S specifically. The general score here trails the Gorliskl and edges the Shenzhen kit, which fits its role: a straightforward module swap for someone who already has the tools and the confidence. If you are paying a shop to do the work anyway, the missing screwdrivers cost you nothing.
Why it still belongs here: a clearly named 1921 module, an explicit model-check warning, and a 90-day manufacturer warranty give a buyer a clean paper trail.
The trade-off: no tools and no instructions in the box, plus a shipping-fragility warning — so plan the install and inspect the parcel on arrival.
Pick this when: you already own the drivers or you are handing the console to a repair shop and want the module named correctly.
Skip the do-it-yourself route here: without tools in the box, a first-timer is left short-handed mid-repair.
Know the Specs
Amperage rating (A)
Amps measure how much current the brick pulls from the wall. The Gorliskl and the Shenzhen unit both list 2.3 A, which means they draw the same current on paper. A brick rated well below what your console expects can trip, cut out, or fail outright — so match the figure on your old part.
Input voltage range
This is the spread of wall voltages the brick can accept. A rating of AC 100-240V means the same unit copes with a North American outlet and with the higher mains voltage used in much of the rest of the world. Wider is safer if the console ever travels with you.
Output voltage and current
The output side is what the console board actually receives. The Shenzhen listing states +12V and 13.75A, which is the meaningful pair to compare against your failed brick. If a listing will not tell you its output figures, that is a reason to keep reading before you order.
Included tools and extras
Because the swap happens inside the case, the box contents matter as much as the brick. A T8 screwdriver and a cross screwdriver cover the fastener types you meet inside. A thermal pad sits between the power component and the heatsink, and a fresh power cable replaces a worn original cord at the same time.
Common Questions
Will this power supply fit my Series S or only the Series X?
Is the power supply inside the console or is it an external brick?
Do I need to open the console to install it?
What does 2.3 A mean on a Series S power supply?
What output does the Series S power supply need to deliver?
Can I use a 100-240V brick in the United States?
What is the thermal pad in the Shenzhen kit for?
How long is the warranty on these power supplies?
Is the Gorliskl brick a better buy than the LeHang module?
My console shuts down at random — will a new power supply fix it?
The Bottom Line
For most people hunting an xbox s power supply, the Gorliskl Replacement Internal Power Supply is the one to order. It pairs the 2.3 A rating the other brick also lists with both screwdrivers in the box, and customers note the random shutdowns stopping after the swap. Want the thermal pad and a fresh power cable bundled in, and you are comfortable with a driver in hand? The Shenzhen kit prints its +12V 13.75A output and covers the whole job. And if the console is going to a repair shop anyway, the LeHang 1921 module names the part correctly and carries a 90-day manufacturer warranty. One last nudge: the Gorliskl holds the strongest owner record of these three, so if you are only buying one brick, start there.
How we choose
We do not accept paid placement. Every pick is matched to a real buyer and a real use-case; we do not hands-on test units.
Sources
Specifications: manufacturer listings and product documentation. Review insights: verified customer reviews. Pricing: not shown on this page (it changes often); check the current price via the retailer link.
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