The Series X has no optical output, so the cleanest hookup runs HDMI from the console into the TV and HDMI ARC or eARC from the TV into the soundbar.
One wrong port — a regular HDMI input instead of the one labeled ARC — and the picture looks fine while the soundbar sits silent. Getting it right takes two cables and about five minutes, and the console’s own audio menu confirms whether the format you picked actually carried through.
This guide covers the three wiring routes that work on Xbox Series X, the settings to change afterward, and the specific mistakes that turn a working setup into a quiet one.
Which Cable Route Should You Use?
Run the console straight into the TV, then send audio from the TV to the soundbar over ARC/eARC or optical. That order keeps video quality intact and gives the TV control of the sound.
Microsoft’s support pages describe three workable arrangements, and each suits a different soundbar:
- HDMI ARC/eARC through the TV: Xbox into a TV HDMI input using the supplied Ultra High Speed HDMI cable, then the TV’s ARC or eARC port into the soundbar’s HDMI ARC/eARC port. Select the soundbar’s HDMI/TV input and turn on HDMI-CEC, ARC/eARC, or passthrough in the TV’s audio settings.
- Optical through the TV: Xbox into the TV by HDMI, then the TV’s optical/S/PDIF output into the soundbar’s optical input. An optical cable from the console itself will never work — Series X|S consoles have no S/PDIF port.
- Soundbar in the video chain: Xbox into the soundbar’s HDMI input, soundbar HDMI output into the TV. This works, but the soundbar has to pass the video signal you want. For 4K at 120 Hz, the soundbar, TV ports, and cable must all support HDMI 2.1 and 4K/120 passthrough.
Bluetooth is not a path here. The Series X offers no general Bluetooth audio route to a soundbar, so treat any Bluetooth pairing button on the bar as irrelevant to console audio.
What Should the Xbox Audio Settings Be?
Open Xbox button > Profile & system > Settings > General > Volume & audio output and set HDMI audio to Stereo uncompressed unless your receiver or soundbar genuinely decodes uncompressed 5.1 or 7.1.
That default is the safe floor: it plays on every TV and bar. Only move to a surround format when the soundbar’s own specifications list it and the console confirms support.
To check, go to Volume & audio output > Advanced > Audio testing & details. That screen reports which formats the current setup accepts. The same Advanced area holds the audio passthrough and mono-output toggles.
One label matters when you read through the list: formats marked “HDMI only” disable optical output on consoles that have an optical port. That footnote belongs to older hardware — the Series X|S has no optical port at all, so optical audio runs through the TV, never the console. For a sense of which bars pair well with these settings, this roundup of tested soundbars for Xbox gaming covers the models reviewers actually run.
Why Do 4K and 120 Hz Settings Fall Apart With a Soundbar?
A soundbar without HDMI 2.1 passthrough can cap resolution or refresh rate when it sits between console and TV. Wiring the Xbox directly to the TV avoids that limit entirely.
Microsoft lists four requirements for 4K gaming at 120 frames per second: an Xbox Series X, an Ultra High Speed HDMI cable rated for HDMI 2.1, a TV with HDMI 2.1, and console settings of Resolution: 4K UHD plus Refresh rate: 120 Hz under Profile & system > Settings > General > TV & display options.
If you do insert a soundbar in the video chain and hit trouble, Microsoft specifically recommends the supplied Ultra High Speed HDMI cable while troubleshooting. That cable is the one item people most often swap for an older spare.
For most rooms the two-cable route wins without argument: Xbox to TV, TV to soundbar. All three arrangements are laid out below.
| Wiring Route | Best For | Watch Out For |
|---|---|---|
| Xbox > TV > soundbar (HDMI ARC/eARC) | Soundbars with an HDMI ARC/eARC port | Using a plain TV HDMI input instead of the ARC-labeled one |
| Xbox > TV > soundbar (optical) | Older soundbars with optical only | Cable must come from the TV, not the console |
| Xbox > soundbar > TV (HDMI passthrough) | Bars rated for HDMI 2.1 passthrough | Video chain caps 4K/120 or HDR |
| Xbox > soundbar (Bluetooth) | Nothing — not supported for console audio | Pairing button does nothing for game sound |
| Xbox > soundbar (optical from console) | Nothing — no optical port exists | The cable physically cannot seat |
How Do You Get Volume and Power Working Together?
Enable HDMI-CEC so the TV remote and console can coordinate power and input switching. It runs at Profile & system > Settings > General > TV & display options > TV & A/V power options.
CEC handles the convenience layer, not the sound. It will not decode an audio format or guarantee that ARC/eARC is configured correctly, so set the audio side first and treat CEC as the finishing touch.
The recurring failures follow a short pattern. The soundbar is plugged into a normal HDMI input rather than the ARC port. The TV’s ARC/eARC or passthrough option was never switched on. The soundbar is set to the wrong input. A 5.1 format was selected on a bar that only handles stereo. Work through those four before buying a new cable.
The console confirms the result on its own: with the correct format selected and audio flowing, the soundbar shows its input as active and game audio plays through it — system sounds included, not just in-game effects.
Sources
- Microsoft Xbox Support. “Connect your Xbox console to a sound system” Covers the HDMI, ARC/eARC, optical, and passthrough wiring routes.
- Microsoft Xbox Support. “Choosing speaker audio settings on your Xbox console” Documents the Volume & audio output menu, format labels, and audio testing screen.
- Microsoft Xbox Support. “How do I control other devices using HDMI-CEC?” Explains the TV & A/V power options path for CEC.