YTX7A-BS Battery Specifications and Compatibility Chart

Yuasa’s YTX7A-BS is a 12-volt, 6 Ah sealed AGM battery rated at 105 cold-cranking amps and built to a 6 × 3 7/16 × 3 3/4 inch case.

Two capacity numbers follow this battery everywhere — 6 Ah and 6.3 Ah — and the pair describe one unit measured at two discharge rates. Get that straight and the rest of a YTX7A-BS battery specifications and compatibility chart reads like a checklist instead of a puzzle. Everything below comes from Yuasa’s published data and Kawasaki’s own parts listing, so the figures hold when a marketplace page rounds them off.

Here is what each number decides, and where fitment usually goes wrong.

YTX7A-BS Specifications: What Each Number Decides

Yuasa builds this model as a sealed, maintenance-free AGM battery rated 12 volts, 6 Ah at the 10-hour rate, 6.3 Ah at the 20-hour rate, and 105 cold-cranking amps at −18 °C. Each figure narrows what the battery can safely replace.

Yuasa’s YTX7A-BS specification page lists the full set, and the table below translates each line into the thing you actually check on the vehicle.

The Type 5 terminal detail matters more than buyers expect. That post layout decides whether your cables reach without crossing, and crossed cables on a live battery can take out a regulator. Match the post positions with your eyes before the terminals go on.

Does A YTX7A-BS Fit Your Vehicle?

Fitment is decided by the vehicle, not the battery’s name. A replacement is correct when the machine calls for the same 12-volt, roughly 6 Ah rating and the case clears the tray, hold-down bracket, cable reach, post layout, and polarity.

The shorter YTX7A name belongs to the same physical family and often gets used as a substitute. Confirm voltage, case size, terminal arrangement, and polarity against the owner’s manual first — the model name alone does not establish fitment for every motorcycle, scooter, ATV, or utility vehicle. Comparing sealed replacements gets easier with numbers in front of you, and our tested YTX7A-BS battery picks lay fitment, capacity, and price side by side.

Charging, Polarity, And The Mistakes That Kill These Batteries

Early failures usually trace back to installation, not to worn plates. Reversed polarity, a case that can slide, or the wrong charger will finish off a sealed AGM unit long before its service life runs out.

• Charger chemistry. Use a charger built for 12 V AGM and lead-acid batteries, and follow both the charger and vehicle instructions. A car-size charger pushed at a small 6 Ah battery can overheat it.
• Polarity check. Confirm post position before the cables go on, and keep tools off the top of the battery — a wrench laid across both posts arcs hard.
• Hold-down and bolts. A loose bracket lets the case vibrate until plates crack, and loose terminal bolts build heat.
• Box contents vary. Some aftermarket versions arrive charged, sealed, and packed with screws only — no harness, no mounting hardware.
• Displacement is not a spec. Choosing by engine size instead of the manufacturer’s specified model is how mismatched cases end up shipped back.

One last look before checkout:

1. Voltage and amp-hour rating match the owner’s manual.
2. Case dimensions clear the tray and hold-down.
3. Post layout matches the cables without stretching or crossing.
4. The charger on your shelf is rated for 12 V AGM.