Specs are compiled from manufacturer listings and verified buyer reviews and can change over time — please confirm the key details on the product page before buying.
The hardest part of buying Yamaha ATV parts isn’t finding a carburetor or a starter — it’s knowing whether the part number on the box actually matches the machine in your garage. One digit off and you’re rebuilding a Blaster carburetor that never bolts up, or a starter that spins the wrong direction. This list cuts straight to the nine parts that Yamaha owners consistently report bolting on and working — oil change kits, carburetors, starters, a fuel cock, and an air filter — so you can match the right part to your exact model year and get back to riding.
This guide is built by comparing the manufacturers’ published specifications and the patterns across verified customer reviews, so you get each pick’s real strengths and trade-offs instead of marketing spin.
Fitment is the whole ballgame here: cross-reference the OEM part number against your machine’s model code before you click buy, because these parts are machined for specific year ranges and a Blaster carb will not breathe life into a Kodiak. Below you’ll find the best Yamaha ATV Parts sorted by what they actually fix, with the fitment ranges spelled out so you can shop with confidence.
Top Picks
How To Choose The Best Yamaha ATV Parts
Every part on this list is Yamaha-specific — it says so in the fitment data, not just the brand name. That’s the first filter. A generic 12-volt starter or an unbranded carburetor might physically bolt on, but the jetting, the flange bolt pattern, and the vacuum port layout are machine-specific on Yamaha ATVs. Buy the part whose listed year range and OEM cross-reference actually includes your model code.
Start With The OEM Part Number, Not The Model Name
“Fits Yamaha ATV” is not a fitment. A real fitment listing gives you the OEM number it replaces — something like 5LP-24500-01-00 or 3HE-81890-00-00 — so you can cross-check it against the sticker on your machine or a factory parts diagram. If a listing only names the model and gives no OEM cross-reference, treat that as a warning that the part may fit the year range but not your exact trim.
Read The Year Range Carefully
Yamaha changed carburetor and starter designs mid-generation. A carburetor listed for 1988-2006 Blaster 200 will not fit a 2007 or later machine even though the model name sounds identical. The same goes for the Big Bear and Kodiak 400 — the fitment list on this page names the exact years and sub-models for each part, so read down to your specific trim before you order.
Know What Comes In The Box
The difference between a carburetor and a carburetor kit matters more than the price. Some of these ship as the bare carburetor; others include gaskets, a fuel filter, a cleaner brush, or even a spark plug and petcock. If you’re already pulling the carburetor off the machine, buying the version that bundles the gaskets saves you a second order and a second wait.
Side-by-Side Comparison
| Model | Best For | Part Type | Key Fitment | Notable Spec | Amazon |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yamalube Kodiak 400 Oil Change Kit★ Best Overall | Routine oil service on Kodiak 400 | Oil change kit | Kodiak 400 (2000-2006) | 10W-40, 1 gallon | Amazon |
| MOTOKU Carburetor Blaster 200Best Value | Replacing a tired Blaster carb | Carburetor | Blaster 200 (1988-2006) | OEM 2XJ-14101-21-S2 | Amazon |
| Carbhub YFS200 CarburetorMost Popular | Blaster 200 carb with the widest fitment list | Carburetor kit | Blaster 200 (1988-2006) | Zinc finish | Amazon |
| A ABIGAIL Starter Motor | Fixing a no-crank on Bruin or Grizzly 350 | Starter motor | YFM350 Bruin/Grizzly 350 | 12 volts, copper | Amazon |
| TANG YFM400 Carburetor Kit | Big Bear, Kodiak and Grizzly carb replacement | Carburetor kit | Big Bear/Kodiak 400, Wolverine, Grizzly | Includes cleaner brush and gasket | Amazon |
| Carbpro Raptor 350 Carburetor | Raptor 350 replacement with extras in the box | Carburetor kit | Raptor 350 YFM350 (2004-2013) | Aluminum finish | Amazon |
| Yamaha OEM Fuel Cock Assembly | Keeping a Raptor 660 on original parts | Fuel cock | Raptor 660 (2001-2005) | OEM 5LP-24500-01-00 | Amazon |
| DB Electrical Starter | Grizzly and Kodiak 450 no-start repair | Starter motor | Grizzly/Kodiak 450 YFM450 | 12 volts, CCW rotation | Amazon |
| K&N YA-4350 Air Filter | Upgrading intake flow on Warrior/Grizzly | Air filter | YFM350FX Warrior, YFM600 Grizzly | Washable cotton gauze | Amazon |
Detailed Reviews
1. Yamalube Kodiak 400 Oil Change Kit
Our pick — 4.5+★ from 300+ verified ratings; the strongest balance of quality and price.
The one routine part you should never buy generic — a gallon of the oil your Kodiak was built around.
If you ride a Kodiak 400 from the 2000 through 2006 model years, this is the oil change made simple. You get a full gallon of 10W-40 Yamalube — that’s the specific oil viscosity grade Yamaha engineered this engine’ clutch and top end around — plus the OEM oil filter and any seals the change calls for. One box, one oil change, nothing left to order. What wins people over is the oil itself: the quality of the Yamalube fill is the thing owners keep coming back for, which is why this is the top pick on the whole list.
Being a Yamaha Motor product rather than an aftermarket clone matters on a wet-clutch ATV. The kit’s contents are listed as OEM oil filters with the necessary seals and enough oil to fill your machine, so you’re not tracking down a separate filter or guessing at fill volume. The viscosity is medium on the SAE J300 scale at 10W-40 — a grade that behaves predictably across the temperature swings of a trail season rather than thinning out or clinging too thick on a cold start.
Here’s the honest trade-off: this kit is built for the Kodiak 400’s 2000-2006 window, not a universal oil change. If your machine is a different model or a different year, the filter and quantity won’t line up, and you’ll be buying the right kit instead. That narrow fitment is exactly why it’s worth owning for a Kodiak owner, though — the contents match the machine rather than approximating it. Yamaha owners rate this one 4.5+/5, and the tally sits past 300+ ratings.
What’s In The Box
- A full gallon of 10W-40 Yamalube, the medium-viscosity grade specified for this machine
- OEM oil filter plus the necessary seals — one oil change, nothing extra to source
- Yamaha Motor genuine part, not an aftermarket clone
Where It’s Fixed
- Fitment is locked to the Kodiak 400 (2000-2006) — it does not cross to other models
- One kit covers one oil change, so trail riders going through frequent service will reorder
Reach for this if: you own a 2000-2006 Kodiak 400 and want the oil change handled in a single order.
Look elsewhere if: your machine falls outside that year window — the filter and fill volume won’t match.
2. MOTOKU Carburetor Yamaha Blaster 200 YFS200
The bare-bones Blaster carb for the rider who just wants the two-stroke breathing again.
The MOTOKU is the straightforward choice if your 1988-2006 Blaster 200’s original carburetor has finally given up and you want a bolt-on replacement without paying for a full kit. It carries the OEM cross-reference 2XJ-14101-21-S2, which is the number to check against your machine before ordering. The flange is bolt-on, meaning you unbolt the old one and bolt this one in the same place — no adapter plate to source. Buyers report it works flawlessly once it’s on the Blaster 200, and the quality of the unit is the part people praise most.
Where this carb earns its keep is performance — it’s the second most-discussed trait among buyers, and for a two-stroke that’s the whole point. If your machine starts hard, hunts at idle, or bogs on acceleration, a fresh carburetor with correct jetting is the fix. The MOTOKU delivers that with a clean, simple install compared with tearing down and rebuilding a worn original.
The part that requires your attention is compatibility. Fitment feedback is genuinely mixed — several owners confirm it drops into their Yamaha Blaster 1999 cleanly, while other machines in the Blaster family report it isn’t the right match for non-tors models. Cross-check that OEM number against your specific year and trim before you order, because a Blaster that isn’t a match will leave you with a carb you can’t run. The MOTOKU holds a 4.0+/5 average over 150+ ratings.
Straight talk on fit: the OEM cross-reference is your friend here — match 2XJ-14101-21-S2 to your machine and this is a clean, cheap path back to a running two-stroke.
The watch-out: this is a bare carburetor, not a kit — no gaskets or extras in the box, so buy those separately if your old ones are shot.
Good match: a Blaster 200 owner with a confirmed part-number match who wants the carburetor only.
Mismatch: anyone with an unconfirmed trim — verify first, because fitment feedback splits here.
3. Carbhub YFS200 Carburetor Yamaha Blaster 200 Carburetor
The Blaster carb that lists the Special Edition too — a fitment list that goes a step past the rest.
The Carbhub YFS200 covers the Blaster 200 and YFS200 for 1988-2006, and it also names the 2006 YFS200SE Special Edition — a trim the MOTOKU listing above doesn’t call out. That wider fitment list is a real advantage if your Blaster happens to be that SE model. The body wears a zinc exterior finish, which is the kind of plating that stands up to the fuel-and-grime environment a carburetor lives in. It ships as a carburetor kit as pictured.
Performance is the trait that carries this carb — it’s the top positive aspect by a wide margin among Blaster owners, and fit is the standout runner-up. Owners mention it fires on the first kick after installation on the Blaster 200. That’s the direct contrast with the MOTOKU up top: the Carbhub takes the fitment and first-kick reputation further, while the MOTOKU stays the leaner bare-carb option.
The honest catch is the idle circuit. Idle adjustment is a mixed area — several owners flag the absence of an idle screw, so expect to dial the idle in through another means rather than a simple screw. Quality also draws split feedback: some call it perfect, others describe it as poor, so inspect the unit on arrival and test the float needle before you button everything up. Durability is the trait buyers mention least favorably, so treat this as a replacement rather than a forever part. 600+ ratings put it at 4.0+/5.
Why Blaster Owners Like It
- Fitment list includes the 2006 YFS200SE Special Edition
- Zinc exterior finish built for a fuel-and-grime environment
- First-kick starting is the reputation it’s earned
What To Expect
- No idle screw — expect to set the idle another way
- Quality and durability feedback splits, so check the float and jets on arrival
Settle here if: you ride a Blaster 200, especially the 2006 SE, and want the widest-listed fitment of any carb here.
Pause if: you want to tune idle from a screw — this one makes you work for it.
4. A ABIGAIL Starter Motor YFM350 Bruin
For the Bruin or Grizzly 350 that clicks instead of cranking — a direct-form starter built to bolt straight in.
When the button on your YFM350 Bruin or Grizzly 350 just clicks, the starter is usually the culprit, and this A ABIGAIL unit is engineered as a direct replacement in form and function. It’s a 12-volt starter wound with copper, and it carries a long OEM cross-reference chain including 3HE-81890-00-00, 3HE818900000, and 4YR-81890-00-00. That list is exactly what you want to see — it lets you confirm the part against your machine’s factory number rather than guessing from the model name alone.
The fitment covers the YFM350 Bruin from 2004 through 2006, the Grizzly 350 across 2004-2015, the Wolverine 350 for 2006-2009, and the YZF600 from 1995-2007. If you’re mid-repair and just need the crank back, this is the kind of part that turns a dead machine around. At 1.49 kg in metal, it’s a solid, serviceable chunk — not a flimsy rebuild in a plastic shell.
The trade to know before you buy: this is a direct replacement, not a genuine original Yamaha starter, so if you insist on factory-only parts you’ll want the OEM unit instead. But the 30-day return and 365-day replacement warranty takes most of the risk out of that choice, and functionality is the trait owners rate highest, with fit a close second. Owners consistently find it fits the YFM350 Bruin and Grizzly 350 perfectly and works well once installed. This sits at 4.5+/5 across 100+ ratings.
Fitment first: the multiple OEM numbers on this starter mean you can cross-check against your exact YFM350, Wolverine, or YZF600 before ordering — the best way to avoid a no-crank no-return.
Warranty note: 30 days to return and 365 days of free replacement covers a defective unit, though not a wrong-fit order.
For you if: you’re replacing a failed starter on a Bruin, Grizzly 350, Wolverine 350, or YZF600 and want the OEM numbers spelled out.
Hold off if: your machine’s part number doesn’t appear in the cross-reference chain.
5. TANG YFM400 Carburetor Kit
One carburetor that stretches across Big Bear, Kodiak, Wolverine and Grizzly — with the cleanup gear included.
This TANG kit covers more ground than any other carburetor here. Its fitment list names the Big Bear 400 and Kodiak 400 families across 2000-2006, the Wolverine 350 and 450, and the Grizzly 350 and 450 through 2007-2014 — including the Hunter Edition, IRS, and EPS trims. It ships with a cleaning brush and gasket in the box, so the job starts with everything you need rather than a trip to the parts counter. The manufacturer backs it with a 12-month quality guarantee.
Performance carries this pick — it’s the most-praised trait among Big Bear and Grizzly owners, with quality a strong second. The carburetor is built to supply a steady flow of fuel, and the goal is the right mix of gas and air so the engine runs properly. Customers note it starts right up and runs like new on the Big Bear and Grizzly 400. That’s a real win for a carbureted 400 cc utility machine that spends its life at low speed and heavy load, where a lean or rich mix shows up fast.
The recurring gripe is the adjustability and, on a small number of units, gas leaking from the overflow. Owners also split on whether any adjustment is needed from the start — some bolt it on and ride, others have to dial it in. The leakage isn’t the norm, but it’s worth checking the float height before the first start. With 250+ ratings, it holds a 4.0+/5 average.
Why It Covers So Much
- Fitment list spans Big Bear, Kodiak, Wolverine and Grizzly models
- Cleaning brush and gasket included, plus a 12-month quality guarantee
- Reviewers point out it starts and runs like new
The Honest Caveats
- Some units need adjustment from the start, and a small number leak at the overflow
- Check that your exact trim appears in the fitment list before ordering
Worth your order if: you run a Big Bear, Kodiak 400, Wolverine, or Grizzly and want a carb plus the cleanup basics in one box.
Check twice if: your model is a trim the fitment list doesn’t name — the coverage is broad, not universal.
6. Carbpro Carburetor For Yamaha Raptor 350 YFM350 (2004-2013)
The Raptor 350 carb that arrives with the petcock, the plug, and the gaskets already in the box.
The package includes a fuel petcock tank valve switch, a throttle base cover and its rubber gasket, a throttle cable clip, a spark plug, five base cover screws, and two oil filters. That’s a start-to-finish carb swap in a single order rather than six separate line items. The body is made from selected aluminum alloy, and the factory sets the air mix ratio for a more fuel-efficient burn.
The selling point for a Raptor owner is ease of install — with the air ratio preset, the listing promises simple installation with no debugging. If your machine has been leaking fuel, struggling to start, refusing to accelerate, or smoking black from the exhaust, this carb is aimed squarely at those symptoms. The aluminum construction gives it a cleaner finish than a plain cast body.
The caution here is jetting. The functionality feedback is genuinely split — some report it runs perfectly while others find it won’t run for more than 30 seconds — and the main jet quality draws a specific concern about the jetting being wrong. That doesn’t make it a bad part, but it does mean you should be prepared to confirm or re-jet rather than expect a turnkey tune on every machine. This sits at 4.0+/5 over 250+ ratings.
What you get in the box: petcock, throttle cover, gasket, cable clip, spark plug, screws, and oil filters
What to plan for: confirm the jetting on your specific Raptor before trusting a factory preset mix
Made for: a Raptor 350 owner who wants the carb and the associated fittings all at once.
Go in aware: be ready to adjust jetting — it’s the one area that isn’t plug-and-play for every machine.
7. Yamaha Raptor 660 Fuel Cock Assembly
The one part on this list where “genuine OEM” isn’t a sales line — it’s the whole reason to buy.
The Yamaha Raptor 660 fuel cock assembly — that’s the vacuum-operated valve that feeds fuel from the tank to the carburetor — is a genuine Yamaha Motor part carrying the OEM number 5LP-24500-01-00, which supersedes the older 5LP-24500-00-00. It fits every Raptor 660 across the 2001-2005 model years. The finish is stainless steel, so the part that sits closest to the fuel supply resists corrosion rather than pitting. It’s built as one piece with two ports.
Owners consistently find this works with stock hardware and lines, and it doubles as a solid vacuum-controlled petcock replacement. The ease of getting the tank off is a genuine perk — with the right valve, pulling the tank for service stops being a fight. Functionality is what owners value most here, quality right behind it, and leak-proof performance is a repeated positive. For a part sitting permanently in gasoline, that track record is the thing you’re actually buying.
The honest limitation is reserve capacity. Reserve function is the one area with negative feedback, so if you routinely push the tank to reserve, know what you’re getting. Beyond that, the value calculus is simple: this is an original Yamaha part for a machine where a cheap third-party valve can leave you stranded. It’s rated 4.5+/5 over 200+ ratings.
The OEM Case
- Genuine Yamaha Motor part, OEM 5LP-24500-01-00, supersedes the earlier number
- Stainless steel finish resists corrosion in constant fuel contact
- Works with stock hardware and lines and eases tank removal
Where To Look Closely
- Reserve capacity draws negative feedback — watch it if you ride deep into reserve
- OEM pricing is the premium end of this list; a third-party valve costs less
For the original-parts purist: a Raptor 660 owner who wants the genuine Yamaha valve, not a clone.
Skip OEM if: you lean on reserve range heavily — that’s the one function buyers flag.
8. DB Electrical Starter for Yamaha YFM 450 Kodiak 4×4, 450 EPS
A counter-clockwise 12-volt starter with the widest OEM cross-list on the page — and a full year of cover.
DB Electrical built this starter for the YFM 450 Kodiak family, and the spec sheet is unusually complete: 12 volts, counter-clockwise rotation, single phase, all-metal. That rotation direction is the detail that matters — a starter spinning the wrong way won’t engage the flywheel, and getting it wrong means a second order. The OEM replacement list is long, spanning Yamaha 4WV-81800-00-00, 4WV-81890-00-00, and 5KM-81890-00-00 alongside cross-references from Arrowhead, Lester, and Wilson. That give you multiple ways to confirm the match.
The fitment reaches the Grizzly 400 and 450 4WD models, including the Hunter and IRS trims, and the Kodiak 450. Owners describe it as well-built and easy to install, with one noting it bolted right up to a 1998 Grizzly 600. It starts immediately when the button is pushed. Build quality is rated nearly as highly as functionality here, which tells you the unit feels substantial rather than like a budget rebuild.
The one practical warning: this is an OEM replacement, not a factory Yamaha starter, so confirm your number on the Amazon Confirmed Fit bar and hover the informational icon for any extra notes before you order. A 1-year replacement warranty protects you if the unit fails. This is the strongest starter option here for the 450 class, at 4.5+/5 over 400+ ratings.
Rotation matters: CCW 12-volt, single phase — this is the spec that keeps the starter engaging your flywheel properly.
Use the fit tool: the confirmed-fit bar plus the OEM cross-list is how you avoid a wrong-order starter here.
Right starter for: Grizzly 400/450 or Kodiak 450 owners who want an all-metal 12-volt CCW unit with a year of cover.
Not for: machines whose OEM number isn’t in the cross-reference list — check before ordering.
9. K&N YA-4350 Engine Air Filter
The washable filter you buy once — layers of oiled cotton gauze instead of a fresh paper element every season.
The K&N YA-4350 is the one part here that’s an upgrade rather than a fix. It fits select 1987-2005 Yamaha machines including the YFM350FX Warrior and the YFM600 Grizzly, and it’s built from layers of premium cotton gauze treated with a tacking agent that traps dirt and contaminants. Airflow is the whole pitch — higher airflow can help horsepower, acceleration, and engine response, and the maker states it typically doesn’t require fuel-management changes. It’s vehicle-specific with a smooth sealing bead for an OEM-style fit.
The economics are what make it worth considering. A paper filter gets thrown away and replaced; this is pre-oiled, washable and reusable, so it’s a buy-once piece that supports longer maintenance intervals. At 0.39 kg it’s light enough that fitment is a non-issue, and the custom seal makes installation straightforward. Air quality protection is the trait buyers value most, with fit a close second.
One thing to sort out: sealing grease feedback is mixed. Some shoppers say the necessary lubricant arrives with the filter, others report it wasn’t included as advertised. Check what’s in your box before you install, and source the grease separately if it’s missing — a dry seal at the intake base is where dirt sneaks past. Expect to clean and re-oil it rather than replace it, which is the whole point. The YA-4350 is rated 4.5+/5 over 300+ ratings.
Why It Pays Off
- Washable, reusable cotton gauze — no paper element to throw away each season
- Higher airflow for better horsepower, acceleration, and engine response
- smooth sealing bead for an OEM-style fit
Before You Install
- Sealing grease may not arrive with the filter — check the box, source it if missing
- Needs periodic cleaning and re-oiling, which is the trade for reusable
Excellent fit for: a Warrior YFM350FX or YFM600 Grizzly owner ready to move off disposable paper filters.
Think on it if: your model year falls outside the listed range — confirm the fitment first.
Know the Specs
OEM Part Numbers And Cross-Reference
The OEM part number is the factory’s exact identifier for a component, and it’s what you match against your machine before buying. A good listing spells out the numbers it replaces — like 5LP-24500-01-00 or 3HE-81890-00-00 — so you can confirm fitment instead of trusting the model name. When listings name several cross-references, you get more chances to find your exact number and avoid a wrong order.
Year Ranges And Sub-Model Fitment
Yamaha changed component designs mid-generation, so the year range on a part is a hard boundary, not a suggestion. A carburetor listed for 1988-2006 fits that window, not a 2007 machine. Some listings go further and name sub-trims — a Special Edition, a Hunter Edition, or an IRS model — and those names tell you precisely which variants the part was machined for.
Viscosity Grade On Oil Kits
The viscosity grade, like 10W-40, is the oil’s thickness rating: the “10W” part describes how it flows cold, and the “40” describes its thickness when hot. On a wet-clutch ATV, the right grade matters for clutch feel and gearbox behavior. The medium viscosity level on the Yamalube kit is the grade Yamaha specifies for that engine.
Starter Rotation And Voltage
A starter’s rotation direction — clockwise or counter-clockwise — determines whether it engages the flywheel the right way. Get it wrong and the unit spins without cranking the engine. Voltage is the electrical rating the machine supplies; a 12-volt starter matches a 12-volt ATV system, which is what most Yamaha ATVs run.
Airflow And Washable Filters
A cotton-gauze filter is oiled to trap dirt, and because it can be washed and re-oiled, it’s reusable instead of disposable. Higher airflow is the goal with an upgraded filter — more air in can help power and response. The trade is upkeep: you clean and re-oil it rather than swap it out.
Exterior Finish And Corrosion
Parts that sit in or near fuel benefit from a corrosion-resistant finish. A zinc finish on a carburetor body, a stainless steel valve, or a metal starter body resists rust and pitting far better than bare cast metal. That finish is what keeps the part functioning through mud, moisture, and constant fuel contact.
Common Questions
Will a Blaster 200 carburetor fit my Kodiak 400?
How do I find the OEM part number on my Yamaha ATV?
What does 10W-40 mean on an oil change kit?
Can I install a carburetor without re-jetting it?
Is a genuine Yamaha fuel cock better than an aftermarket one?
Why does a starter’s rotation direction matter?
Do I need to re-oil a K&N air filter?
Can a carburetor kit include the gaskets I need?
How long should ATV parts like these last before replacement?
Can I fit a Grizzly 350 starter on a Kodiak 450?
Is a higher-flow air filter safe for my stock Yamaha ATV?
The Bottom Line
For most owners working on a Yamaha ATV, the yamaha atv parts pick that’s hardest to argue with is the Yamalube Kodiak 400 Oil Change Kit — a genuine Yamaha package that turns a routine oil change into one order with everything you need, which is why it holds the top spot. If your machine has a fuel or starting fault instead, grab the Yamaha OEM Fuel Cock Assembly for a Raptor 660, because the genuine part removes the guesswork on a component that sits in gas all day. And for a carbureted 400 with a broad fitment list — Big Bear, Kodiak, Wolverine, and Grizzly — the TANG YFM400 Carburetor Kit is the one to reach for. Shop by your OEM number first, and every pick here becomes a straightforward job.
How we choose
We do not accept paid placement. Every pick is matched to a real buyer and a real use-case; we do not hands-on test units.
Sources
Specifications: manufacturer listings and product documentation. Review insights: verified customer reviews, as of November 2026. Pricing: not shown on this page (it changes often); check the current price via the retailer link.
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